In an isolated pocket of wealth in the otherwise mainstream west, lurks this daddy of gastro pubs. Excellent food, tad expensive / smallish portions but none the less, a great experience. Superb wine list, good range on beer on tap. Staff are slightly pretentious but landlady is friendly enough if you become a regular. Only draw back is the crowd - media darrrlings with family in tow, weekends can become a nightmare of hen pecked husbands nipping out for a crafty one with little ones running around - more of a creche than a boozer. Worth booking a table and making a meal out of it in the evening.