Get ready for a long one....this is (according to Google) the FIRST review of Gordon Ramsay's new gastro pub - The Warrington in Maida Vale (formerly, and still known as, my local).
My beloved local, The Warrington was closed for more than 4 months after Gordon Ramsay holdings bought it and proclaimed they would refurbish it to its former beauty, and raise it to gastro pub glory. I am actually a big fan of GR, despite his egotistical flaws I have had many amazing dining experiences at his great stable of restaurants. The Warrington re-opened just 4 days ago, and I was one of the many locals who dropped by for a drink. So time for the review...
Firstly, I don't know why it took them 4 months to re-open but almost nothing has changed of the decor in the bar - and that is FANTASTIC! The pub was a real mish mash of Victorian styles and it has all remained, probably because it is staunchly protected. I expect that the delay to opening was due to the rejection GRH's requests to change the interior, and I am glad of it. Ok, the place is oldy worldy, quite dark with lots of strange carvings of nubile half naked ladies, but its got character and that makes it unique! All that GRH has managed to change is new tiles around the bar area, and that's about it.
After a drink on opening night we went for Sunday lunch a few days later. I am over the moon, the food was more than I expected. 3 of us dined on smoked salmon, blinis and creme fraiche; smoked eel; and sprouting broccoli with hollandaise for starters. Mains were steak and kidney pie; pigs cheeks with swede puree; and guinea fowl with puy lentils and bacon. All meals were fantastic!! The starters (£5-7) and mains (£10-15) were excellent value. Its hard to imagine but my spouting broccoli, lightly steamed, tossed with butter and served with hollandaise, was worth every bite. Main courses took it to the next level. The steak and kidney pie was perfection, masses of meat flaky and tender with a lovely crust. The pig cheeks were scrumptiously creamy, and the puy lentils and bacon lifted the almost boring guinea fowl to a new level. A beef roast on the menu looked tempting and I will be back soon to give it a try.
And yes we had desserts too - chocolate fondant with ice cream (true choco's delight), treacle tart with clotted cream, and a steamed ginger pudding - the winner! All at £6 each. Total for 3 courses, a bottle of lovely Chablis and two cocktails came to under £150. In my opinion completely worth it, and I am so looking forward to dining here more often.
My only complaint (!) is that the decor in the upstairs restaurant is supremely boring - beige, beige, beige. Once it filled up the buzz of diners compensated, but initially I found it quite bland. GRH if you are reading - change the colour of the chairs and add some mirrors/prints, something!!!
However another positive note, the pies and snack menu in the bar downstairs looked fab for a quick bite. By the look of the empty plates it was also a success. My only hope is that it doesn't get too busy that we'll never get here a seat again!