I recently had the great fortune of being taken to lunch at The Wolseley, and can't think of anywhere better for feeling right in the mix of things `doing lunch` upbeat London-style - somehow all class without any cumbersome pretensions. My endive, Roquefort and walnut salad starter was exactly that: no complicating/ overpowering dressings, no silly names. Room-temp. Roquefort (easy enough to `do` but all too often neglected); fresh crunchy greens and nuts. The Severn and Wye smoked salmon with soda bread which followed would only have been improved by a slightly more generous helping of soda bread - but the salmon was really the point of the dish and had I asked for more bread I am sure it would have been forthcoming without fuss. I liked the water and wine glass refills too - service is always at risk of becoming intrusive if executed without thought, but here it was efficient and friendly without being over-bearing. The only downside to this otherwise excellent experience was being rushed past the dessert menu (at 1.50pm we were told that we were very welcome to order it but that the table muct be cleared by 2pm - a somewhat artificial choice). On the whole, though, I very much enjoyed not just the buzz but the high standards of this very London establishment.