Tipped

Strange but Fabulous

October 11, 2007

While not as bizarre as those restaurants that serve you food in bed, Wapping Food is an undeniably strange place. Formerly a power station, the conversion left much of the architecture and machinery as it was. The building is now used for both the restaurant and an art gallery space, The Wapping Project. When I last ate here, there was an art exhibit composed of thousands of brands of bottled water displayed on long tables. The bottles were lit, but the room was otherwise pitch black and there was a thunderous grinding soundtrack playing. Somehow, it actually worked.

The food served in the restaurant is excellent and creative. Not all of the combinations work perfectly and presentation varied from inspired to slightly muddy. The ingredients were universally fresh and delicious. An appetizer of grilled squid with shaved bottarga was amazing, as was the main course of lamb with truffled polenta. Like many restaurants of this caliber, the desserts suffered a bit compared to the savoury items but were decent. The service was very friendly, professional, and pleasantly attentive; plus, despite the modern industrial space, it was well warmed, not too loud, and very comfortable.

Tags: art, gourmet food