I'll eat your identity crisis.
February 10, 2009
To put the important stuff first, I'll go back to Wahaca, and take friends. No hesitation, no doubts. The food at Wahaca was varied, very very tasty, and veraciously cheap. The waitstaff were friendly and efficient, the ambiance buzzing, the joint packed on a Monday night, the decor light and modern and interesting. My only factual actual complaints about our dinner there were the noise level (a bit much), and the crappy margarita--too sweet and mild, not enough tequila or acidity to justify the salt. But they had a fantastic sangrita, which is basically my favorite cocktail ever. And they have a separate tequila menu, the sign of a Mexican restaurant that takes itself very seriously indeed. So far, so very good.
But it's this seriousness that left me with serious questions. They claim all their food is locally and organically grown (the habanero sauce came all the way from Devon), and everything then recycled or disposed of as gently as possible afterwards. While I strongly agree with the hippy politics, the effect at Wahaca (short for Oaxaca, I presume) was one of complete unrootedness, inauthenticity. Mexican lite, inspired by but completely divorced from actual Mexico, despite Wahaca's claim to be "Mexican market food." (My memories of the market at Merida? Dark, huge, rambling, packed, selling everything possible, including the best cinnamon I've ever had, but with poor drainage, beggars, live chickens.) The Mexican food culture, the cuisine, evolved in a certain place, with a certain climate, in a specific cultural and historical context. It has terroir. Chilies grow better in warmer climes; the Aztecs prized the corn fungus known as huitlacoche. Apparently, huitlacoche grows best "during times of drought in a 78°F to 93°F (25°C–34°C) temperature range." How on earth do you duplicate these conditions in Devon, or Lancashire, and why would you try?
The feeling of being in a restaurant only loosely inspired by an ideal of Mexico was heightened by some of the menu's oddities--feta cheese instead of queso fresco, a "crema" on the frijoles that seemed for all the world to just be crème fraîche. The modernist decor, and Japanese-ish pottery dishes--Wahaca could have taken over the space and furnishings from any other restaurant, and any restaurant could take over from them. The waitstaff could have formed their own United Nations.
So maybe the actual point of Wahaca isn't Mexican food, and certainly not authentic Mexican food (though they studied it very carefully.) I assume it's to demonstrate a different type of restaurant, one where you can eat locally with the smallest possible environmental impact, where you know pains have been taken to recycle what can be recycled, and instead of matches, they give you chili pepper seeds to take home. Perhaps Wahaca, modern organic British food, can be forgiven (should be applauded?) for letting itself be inspired by the cuisine of a place 6000 miles away....at least when the results are so successful. Three cheers for globalization, and its backlash.
Keywords: cuisine: mexican, buzzy, cocktails, vegetarian, fun, organic