A Narrow Success 
January 06, 2008
Gordon Ramsay made a good purchase when he recently bought and refurbished this historic riverside pub. The building itself is beautiful, and the river views are stunning. The Narrow is a pub to the core, complete with a basic menu and a focus on beers and ciders. True to form for a historic pub, there is also a skinny confusing entrance by the toilets and no clear place to go to find a host to seat you.
The food, in typical gastropub fashion, is essentially standard pub fare done well with some gourmet twists. Everything is nicely prepared, but many dishes could use some balance. The deviled lamb kidneys on toast is an overly generous portion, but could have used some greens, apple/pear, or anything at all on the side to cut the heaviness. The main courses should be ordered with a side of vegetables or potatoes because they come with almost nothing else on the plate. But then again, this is supposed to be pub food, i.e., piles of fat and protein washed down with fermented beverages, and balance is not really a hallmark of this type of food. I still want a salad.
If dinner had ended pre-pudding, I would have left with only a mildly positive impression of the restaurant, but the desserts were so amazingly delicious that I left with a huge smile on my face. Don't miss the bread and butter pudding - the best version of this I have ever encountered - and the cranberry tangerine crumble with vanilla ice cream was also incredibly tasty.
The main problem with The Narrow is Gordon Ramsay himself: The Narrow very much wants to be a neighborhood pub with good food at reasonable prices, but because it is a Ramsay restaurant it has become a destination and reservations are definitely needed well in advance. The trouble is that the food is too basic for all of the attention, and some may leave underwhelmed if they expect a higher class affair. Next time I will probably come back for lunch (better views, easier reservations), as long as they serve dessert.
Tags: pub, river views, riverside pub, Gordon Ramsay, gastropub