Tipped

Nice try

October 26, 2007

I really wish there were half stars for these reviews. Giving Moomba just three leaves me, well, feeling unjust. Let's call it three and a half then and get on with it.

Moomba is a restaurant full of promise. Eclectically decorated, but not in a bad way, Moomba has the feel of a restaurant comfortable with itself. It's modern but cosy and the menu is unusual enough to pull in the more demanding diners.... but it just didn't quite delver.

I mean how about the sound of Seared scallops, smoked bacon polenta, parsley beurre blanc (£6.45)? Sounds fantastic but, well, it just didn't follow through. Somehow it fell flat, though the Fried Calamari in Sesame Seeds, leaves, garlic dressing (£5.95) was a bit better.

Mains of Beef wellington, madeira sauce, buttered spinach (£14.50) and Medallions of wild venison, gingerbread, potato gratin, brandy plum sauce (£15.00) were better though the venison was a little on the tough side and beef came with a second, unidentified reduction which wasn't bad, just unnecessary.

The service was great, no complaints there, friendly and competent, but the problem is that Moomba is trying to be something it's not quite able to be. Dishes are on the fussy side and when they don't deliver the robust flavours or delicate balances you hope for, well, you're left with no dessert and three stars. Too bad.

Tags: gastro English Continental